Eliminate MaxOnionsPending; replace it with MaxOnionQueueDelay

The right way to set "MaxOnionsPending" was to adjust it until the
processing delay was appropriate.  So instead, let's measure how long
it takes to process onionskins (sampling them once we have a big
number), and then limit the queue based on its expected time to
finish.

This change is extra-necessary for ntor, since there is no longer a
reasonable way to set MaxOnionsPending without knowing what mix of
onionskins you'll get.

This patch also reserves 1/3 of the onionskin spots for ntor
handshakes, on the theory that TAP handshakes shouldn't be allowed to
starve their speedier cousins.  We can change this later if need be.

Resolves 7291.

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